From Control Freak to Group Tour: My Central Asia Adventure with Advantour
As someone who plans every detail of her travels, booking an organised tour through Central Asia with Advantour was a leap of faith-but one that paid off in the best way.
Aside from my surprise birthday adventure with Journee, I’ve spent the last six years solo travelling, planning and curating every single one of my trips myself. I’m talking full control mode—booking my own accommodation, organising transfers, planning my days, and choosing my activities. So committing to a fully organised tour, complete with airport transfers, pre-booked hotels, and a fixed daily itinerary, was well outside my comfort zone.
But when it came to planning a trip to Turkmenistan, I quickly realised I didn’t have much of a choice. The only way to secure a visa is by booking an organised tour, which meant diving headfirst into the world of group travel.
After what felt like endless scrolling, I stumbled across a Forbes article featuring a 14-day Central Asia tour covering all five ‘Stans—Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan—with Advantour. That article completely sealed the deal.
I had originally planned to visit only Turkmenistan, but once I realised how challenging Central Asia can be to travel independently—and how close the countries are—it suddenly made sense to combine multiple destinations into one epic adventure.
Choosing the Right Tour
Browsing the Advantour website, I was impressed by the variety of tours on offer. While the 14-day Central Asia itinerary was the most popular (and highly recommended), I knew I wanted a slower pace—especially more time in Turkmenistan rather than rushing through five countries in two weeks.
Instead, I booked the 13-day Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan Group Tour, and to make the experience even more special, I added a two-day private extension in Turkmenistan to explore further off the beaten path.
And honestly?
That decision made the entire trip unforgettable. With the tour booked and visas secured, it was finally time to set off—starting with the country that had fascinated me for years.
Turkmenistan: The World’s Most Curious Country?
Turkmenistan isn’t exactly a destination that sits high on most people’s travel radars. In fact, many of my family and friends had never even heard of it. Often dubbed the “North Korea of Central Asia”, its reputation only added to my intrigue.
The infamous Darvaza Gas Crater—burning continuously for over five decades—may have been what first drew me in, but Turkmenistan offers so much more. From Silk Road history and dramatic landscapes to jaw-dropping white-marble architecture in Ashgabat and a surprising number of Guinness World Records.
The Visa Process (So You Don’t Have to Stress)
Out of the three ‘Stans I visited, Turkmenistan definitely had the most intense visa process. You can only apply if you’ve booked an organised tour, as a Letter of Invitation is required to obtain a visa on arrival.
Thankfully, Advantour handled everything on my behalf, making the process incredibly smooth. All I had to do was wait—which, for me, was the hardest part.
First Impressions of Ashgabat
Turkmenistan has often been labelled “the world’s strangest country”, so I genuinely didn’t know what to expect. I’d heard wild stories—like having a national holiday for melons or dogs once being banned from Ashgabat due to their smell—and endless conflicting opinions about how strict the country really is.
But on arrival, nothing felt strange at all. The airport process was quick and straightforward. After showing my passport, having my fingerprints taken, and paying my visa fee, I was officially in.
Before I’d even reached baggage claim, my Advantour representative was waiting inside the airport with a sign. She helped me collect my bags, get into our private transfer, checked me into the hotel, and talked me through everything I needed to know.
And the hotel?
Absolutely not what I expected. Think grand white-and-gold marble everywhere—it felt like stepping into a palace.
I also loved the rooftop hotel bar where you could enjoy drinks and food taking in the views of the city at night.
Exploring Ashgabat: Day VS Night
After freshening up, I headed out to explore a nearby shopping centre for a much-needed caffeine hit and wander. The streets were eerily quiet—almost surreal—and suddenly everything I’d read online about Ashgabat feeling empty felt very real.
I returned to the hotel to fully embrace recovery mode: spa time and a massage to ease the tension from the long flight. And yes—this 90-minute massage cost just £20 at a five-star hotel. Crazy right?
In the evening, I decided to step back out for dinner and the city transformed. Locals came out to shop, dine, and socialise, and restaurants filled quickly. Boutique shops sold silk scarves and traditional Turkmen dresses. While some shopkeepers were friendly, others were cautious, and I occasionally felt closely watched which put me off.
For dinner I settled into a local spot and had some flavourful, filling local dishes, which was delicious and super affordable.
Something to note in Turkmenistan is that there is little to no phone service; WIFI is basically non-existent, and photos of government buildings are prohibited.
Beyond Ashgabat: Hidden Gems & Desert Adventures
My private tour began with a visit to Kow Ata Underground Lake, and it was nothing short of magical. Not only was I the only tourist there—I was the only person. Floating peacefully in 38°C thermal waters, surrounded by silence, was pure tranquillity and one of my biggest highlights in Turkmenistan.
Later that day, I visited Nohur Village, known for its stunning scenery and distinctive traditions.
On day two, I headed to the Yangikala Canyons, and wow… they were unlike anything I’d ever seen. Untouched, dramatic, and bursting with colour. I enjoyed a picnic lunch at the back of the vehicle, surrounded by towering sandstone cliffs. I crossed paths with just two other travellers all day, which made the experience feel incredibly special.
From days three to five, I joined my group—just one other traveller—and explored more of Turkmenistan’s highlights: Ashgabat’s futuristic white-marble buildings, the majestic Akhal-Teke horses, Ancient Merv (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the city of Mary, and Nisa, the former capital of the Parthian Empire.
Camping at the Door to Hell
For the ultimate adventure, we ventured deep into the Karakum Desert to camp overnight in a yurt beside the Darvaza Gas Crater, famously known as the Door to Hell.
Seeing it in real life was surreal. By day, it’s underwhelming—but at night, it’s completely otherworldly. Standing beneath the stars as flames roared from the earth was something I’ll never forget.
A quick warning, though—the road there is almost as wild as the crater itself. Expect a very bumpy ride.
To wrap up my time in Turkmenistan, we visited Kunya-Urgench, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, before crossing the border into Uzbekistan.
Uzbekistan: The Beating Heart of Central Asia
Uzbekistan is one of the most travelled of the ‘Stans—and for good reason. Often described as the beating heart of Central Asia, I was excited to spend the next seven days here.
Even better for UK travellers: Uzbekistan is visa-free for up to 30 days.
Khiva: Frozen in Time
My first stop was Khiva. I had a smooth and easy border crossing. My driver was waiting on the other side to take me straight to the hotel—another beautiful stay with attentive staff who even helped me exchange currency.
The following morning, I met my group—just two other travellers—and received a lovely welcome pack from Advantour before heading out to explore the ancient city.
Khiva ended up being my favourite city in Uzbekistan. Wandering within its old walls felt like stepping into another century. My highlight was visiting Ichan-Qala Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with historic buildings, museums, shops, and eateries. I also bought a beautiful traditional outfit and tried Uzbek bread for the first time.
Bukhara: Silk Road Energy
Next was Bukhara, an ancient city overflowing with history. You can truly feel the Silk Road vibes here. We explored mausoleums, trade domes, and minarets, learned about carpet weaving and pichak knives, and I even got to sit on the royal throne—taking my power, of course.
The city had a fantastic atmosphere day and night. Our hotel was perfectly located near the main square, making dinners and shopping easy—and yes, I added more silk scarves to my collection.
On our final night, Advantour organised a private dinner after a national fashion show and dance performance—a beautiful way to end our time in Bukhara.
Samarkand: A Fairytale Finale
The final stop was Samarkand, the largest city and central hub of Uzbekistan. Every building looked like it belonged in a fairy-tale. I took endless photos and was lucky to have a group member who loved photography—shout-out to him for being my personal photographer.
With so much to see Registan Square is a great start and must-visit. Advantour includes a guided tour as part of the itinerary. However I highly recommend returning at night to see it illuminated. Plus I booked a sunrise photoshoot with Marupovph to capture epic shots with no crowds while dressed as an Uzbek princess.
Samarkand had so much to offer with its historical sites, stunning buildings and markets. I also got to get hands-on and learned how to make silk paper from mulberry bark, sampled snacks and local juices at Siab Bazaar, drank healing waters near the Tomb of Saint Daniel, and even went wine tasting to try some Uzbek wines.
And of course, the food.
You can’t leave Uzbekistan without trying plov, fresh Uzbek bread, and drinking endless cups of tea.
Uzbekistan was more than a destination.
It was a journey through time, culture, colour, and connection—and it will always hold a special place in my heart along with the amazing people I met along the way on my adventure.
Tajikistan: The Land Of The Lakes
Crossing into Tajikistan by car, it was finally time to trade bustling cities for open landscapes and truly slow things down. After weeks filled with history and architecture, this final leg promised something completely different—nature, space, and stillness.
The border crossing was slightly confusing. I hadn’t realised just how long the walk would be or where Uzbekistan ended, and Tajikistan began. I was immediately hounded by locals trying to exchange currency, and while overwhelming, I did end up changing £50 just to have cash on hand. Soon after, I met my Tajik guide and driver and began the journey toward the Seven Lakes.
Driving through the Fann Mountains, I watched untouched landscapes roll by—goats and cows wandering freely, children waving on their way to school, and families swimming in lakes. It was exactly the peace I’d been craving to end my Central Asia adventure.
I was the only traveller on this part of the tour, which worked out perfectly. Having a private guide allowed me to move at my own pace—lingering longer in places I loved and skipping what didn’t call to me.
The Seven Lakes of the Fann Mountains
The Seven Lakes—Mijgon, Soya, Hushyor, Nophin (2,139m), Khurdak, Marguzor, and Hazorchashma (2,400m)—were each vibrant in colour and completely unique.
I enjoyed a traditional lunch by one of the lakes, and without hesitation, it was the best meal of my entire Central Asia trip. The food in Tajikistan never disappointed, and Advantour did an incredible job choosing authentic local spots—all meals included.
That evening, we continued to Penjikent, explored the city, and ended the day at the citadel as the sun set. Once again, I checked into a spacious hotel room fit for a queen.
Iskandarkul & Fanskaya Niagara
The next day, we headed to Iskandarkul Lake, named after Alexander the Great—known as Iskander in the East.
After visiting the lake, I enjoyed a meal at a traditional homestay before exploring the Five Springs, Zmeinoe Lake, and finally walking to the impressive Fanskaya Niagara, a 38-metre-high waterfall often compared to Niagara Falls.
Seeing it alone was incredible—especially as the walking platform didn’t feel entirely stable. Probably best I had it to myself!
Later that afternoon, we drove to Dushanbe, where I spent the following day sightseeing—visiting botanical gardens, mosques, and a museum housing the remarkable 13-metre-long Buddha in Nirvana.
Final Thoughts on Tajikistan
My three days in Tajikistan were short but incredibly sweet, and it’s a country I would absolutely return to—especially for multi-day treks. While my guide felt slightly more rehearsed than those in previous countries, it didn’t take away from the experience, and I still had an amazing time
Would I Recommend Advantour? Absolutely.
Overall, booking an organised tour with Advantour was a fantastic experience. They are well-priced, extremely reliable, and offer a truly local experience while still maintaining comfort and ease. For destinations like Central Asia—where visas, logistics, and transport can be challenging—it is 100% worth the money.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this blog post and found it helpful or inspiring.
If you have any questions—or want to tell me which country intrigued you most—leave a comment below. I’d love to hear from you.